Shigaclone modifications - compiled guide


HomeStandard ResistorInvisistorVNP CapVNM CapResearchWooden Cap ModShigaclone GuideCritical ListeningContactAbout Us In this guide, I will attempt to provide a complete and balanced overview of the known modifications for the popular "Shigaclone" CD player. The guide is still in development - wear a hard-hat.

Quick links:
Reference resources (PCB pictures, datasheets)
Power Supply (transformers, diodes, filter capacitors, regulators)
Basic modifications (removal of unnecessary parts, installing output resistors)
Advanced modifications (swapping critical capacitors, clock/crystal)
Case considerations (materials, mounting, puck, remote)


Read this first

For every advice I tried to provide the original source (a link to the relevant post in the Shigaclone thread), if I could still find it. Where I use resources previously published on diyaudio I try to credit the original poster, but I do not always remember who was the author - please help me improve this if you can. Much in this guide is based on my personal experiments, most of which I published on diyaudio.

Names is [square brackets] are nicknames of the diyaudio forum members. Some of them, I will refer to with their actual names for convenience:
[Peter Daniel] = Peter Daniel = Peter - the guy who started the whole Shigaclone movement :)
[Tvicol] = Tiberiu Vicol = Tibi = the guy who leads the new Shigaclone project :)

My forum nickname is [uncle_leon] = Jarosław Biniek = Jarek :)

As this guide is early in its development, and my spare time is limited, please let me know what kind of info you would like to see here first, what to expand etc. If you want to submit some info, I will greatly appreciate that - you will of course get the due credit for your contribution.


Reference resources


JVC RC-EZ31 (pdf, 2.90MB). RC-EZ51 is identical. CD servo schematic is on page 22.

LA9242M (pdf, 153KB)

LC78601E (pdf, 147KB)

CSC1469XH (pdf, 341KB - kindly submitted by Tibi - thanks!)

Shiga transistors: 2SA608 (pdf, 46KB) and 2SC3396 (pdf, 80KB).


"Old" Shigaclone pictures

When planning my next modification, I often found it helpful to look at the actual PCB, so here goes:

Control board - click to view in high resolution; please note that some original components have already been replaced/removed here (C952, C916, C906 and L901):

Here are several shots of the PCB - click to see the high-resolution images:

New Shigaclone resources

All of the datasheets, drawings etc. for the new Shigaclone are available from Tibi's website:

The only thing about the new Shigaclone that seems to be missing from Tibi's website is the connector layout picture:


Power Supply


There seems to be general agreement that split-bobbin or R-core type transformers are among the best to use, although there were at least two votes in favour of C-cores as well.

Generally, we want a transformer that will reject high-frequency mains-borne noise well. This means it should have as little as possible capacitive coupling between primary and secondary windings, and ideally, it should also have a relatively narrow bandwidth.

For toroidal transformers, inter-winding shield is strongly recommended.

US users are advised to go for a Hammond 166 series, which are inexpensive and sound well. European users can go for the Hammond 266 series (which allows 230V operation), or try to find a similar transformer on eBay or elsewhere - just look for those with split bobbins, not wound one over another. The only European sources of Hammond trafos I found, are these two Italian shops: (link #1, link#2), and this, also Italian, eBay seller. (Please let me know if you know of any other EU sources)
Hammond transformers are also available from these EU shops (thanks to Joonas P. for the info!):

Alternatively, look for an R-core transformer - they are strictly superior to toroidal types, although I am unsure how they stack against the 166/266 Hammonds. The most popular EU source for these transformers seems to be (in French - if you struggle, open it through Google translate).

For the best results, use as big transformer, as you can reasonably afford (as much as 120VA has been suggested, post #185).



The original Shigaclone recipe by Peter Daniel uses MSR860 diodes. My own experiments with other various (fairly random) diodes failed to find a better diode, although one came pretty close (MBR16100G) - a touch more dynamic, but ultimately less natural than MSR860.

Tibi suggests that the new silicon-carbide diodes from CREE should be better. The CSD-01060A type was recommended, to be exact. There have been no direct comparison reports, so I am including both diodes in the guide for now.

Filter capacitors

The proven "classic" shigaclone PSU by Peter Daniel uses one 2200 or 1000uF capacitor before the regulator, and one 1000uF cap after. Peter's original choices were Black Gate FK or F before the reg, and Black Gate STD after. My experiments confirm that this is the best combination.

With Black Gates becoming increasingly hard to get, I have done many hours of test with various other capacitors, in hope of finding a good alternative to BGs. They were described here. 2200uF seems to be the best value to use before the regulator, although 1000uF works just as well most of the time. It is not recommended to go much below 1000uF with either cap though as bass may diminish as a result.

I did more tests since I published the results linked above, but there were no major changes at the top of the list.
The summary is, the best currently available capacitor combination is 2200uF/25V Elna Starget (red jacket) -> reg -> 1000uf/16V Sanyo Os-Con. Both are available from me, or through eBay. Please note, I have not tested the black jacket Starget, on the assumption that it will sound the same as the red - however this is not confirmed. The next best alternative to Starget is Nichicon FG, the next best alternative to Os-Con is Rubycon ZL. If your system is already on the bright/dry side, you may want to use Nichichon FG or Starget which are warmer and softer than Os-Con or Rubycon.
The cheap option: use Panasonic AM for both positions.

Remember that nearly any electrolytic capacitor can be greatly improved by wood-modding. Please note however, that wood-modding a cheap cap is NOT an alternative to buying a better capacitor - wood-mod improves the timbre and presence, but dynamics and detail level remain largely the same as in the original cap.



The "classic" Shiga PSU uses only one 8V regulator, LM7808 in this simple layout:

I tested a bunch of different versions of this reg and while there are some differences (even among the same brand), they are relatively very minor and not worth wasting the time.

There is an option to use an additional 5V regulator to power the electronics, with the 8V reg left in place to feed the motors. It is a significant upgrade, but there seems to be consensus that in order to take full advantage of it, the 5V regulator should be powered from a separate transformer. Otherwise the improvement may be small, or the mod may even worsen the sound or cause problems with the ground. Here is how you can connect the 5V on the old Shiga board:

This picture shows two alternative connection points for the 5V regulator output (use either 5A or 5B). The trace near R964 has to be cut in order to complete the modification.

Which 5V regulator to use?

Best results are obtained using a "super regulator" of some sort (Belleson, ALSWR, Salas, Teddy, Jung, Burson etc.). Simple monolithic regulators are unlikely to bring big improvements to the sound.

Some people used ALSWR reg and liked the result (for example [BMW850] in post#4210), but Peter Daniel tried ALSWR and Teddy regulators, and was not impressed by them (post#4211, post#4580), which implies his Bobken regulator might sound even better. Salas regulators are inconvenient because they require heat-sinks, but have been reported to sound very good.

The most recommended regulator seems to be the one developed by [Bobken] - the so called "Bobken regulator". Here is the schematic, including the PSU:

It is fairly simple to build, but sourcing all the recommended parts may be difficult and somewhat costly.
BSP129 is probably the hardest to get, although for now at least, it is available on eBay.
The voltage reference can be either LM285Z-2.5 or LT1009.
The recommended resistors are Caddock MK132, except for the 15R one which is Caddock MP930, and 3R one which is the blue Panasonic from DigiKey.
The original design uses all Black Gate capacitors (2200uF FK, 1000uF STD, 10uF N). As they are no longer available, please refer to the Filter capacitors section for advice on the big caps. The 10uF position can be filled with Sanyo Os-Con or Elna Starget, or even a film capacitor of your choice; you can use a slightly higher value (Bobken uses 33uF here, Peter Daniel prefers 10uF).

Please note, because AD811 is operating outside of its specification in this regulator, it is advisable to use the design exactly as posted here, or else numerous problems may quickly arise.


Basic modifications

Unnecessary parts (old Shigaclone only, new Shiga owners read below)

In the classic Shigaclone, the following parts are recommended for removal:

  • Choke L901
  • Electrolytic capacitor C952 (original C916 cap is also removed, but immediately replaced with another)
  • Two ceramic bypass capacitors, C917 and C963 (bypasses for the two caps above)

Following my experiments, I also recommend removing the following bypasses:

  • C919 (bypass for C918)
  • C928 (bypass for C930)
  • C935 (bypass for C934)
  • C940 (bypass for C939)
  • C960 (bypass for C953)
  • C962 (bypass for C942) - this one supplies the internal DAC, so will not matter for most people, but I removed it anyway...

Here is a picture showing the exact cap locations (click for the high-resolution version):

As a result of this mod, all but the last traces of the "digital harshness" disappear, the sound becomes much more pleasant and natural. Treble in particular opens up spectacularly and becomes positively sweet. I consider this a "must have" mod - especially that it's essentially free. My only word of caution is that, in an already treble-heavy system, this mod may tip the balance a bit too far into treble. Still, even if that happens, chances are you will decide to keep the mod and fight the treble issue elsewhere (as I did), because the improvement far outweighs the cost.

New Shigaclone owners: it is very likely that the counterparts of the abovementioned components can be safely removed from the new Shiga as well (they are only bypasses after all, and are not strictly necessary). I have not tested this myself though, so I cannot guarantee the effect. I will post a list of components to remove once I have at least one report of this mod working properly in a new Shiga.

C916 / C43

This is the power supply input capacitor. In both the old and the new Shiga, it is among the most influential parts in the entire transport, although the degree of the influence depends on your power supply arrangements (separate regulator lines will take some of its duties and sonic importance).

The following comments are mainly based on my own, extensive listening sessions, done on a JVC Shiga with a single 8V PSU.

Firstly, the optimal value for this capacitor appears to be 47uF. Lower values generally result in diminished bass response, although in other respects as low as 10uF works well. One can also omit this capacitor entirely - this has the peculiar effect of perfectly natural tonality, but with very high loss of detail. Values higher than 68uF appear to cause bass sluggishness problems, although I have not tested very many such capacitors.

There is only 5V across this capacitor, so voltage rating as low as 6.3V is sufficient.

Regarding capacitor type - after conducting very many comparisons, I could assign all capacitors into these four, roughly defined, groups:

  1. Good performance, no problems.
  2. Performance lacking, but still no major problems.
  3. Significant flaws that put me off, even if performance was good otherwise.

So that's three groups. The fourth group is "Black Gate". I know this is going to be controversial among some DIY-ers, but the Black Gates really do come into their own here. The worst Black Gate I tested (33uF/16V STD) was better than the best non-BlackGate capacitor - albeit marginally.

Group 1. consists mostly of audio-grade, fairly expensive capacitors - you do get what you pay for, to an extent. The caps I list here are the ones I thought had good performance overall. If they had flaws, they were either minimal, or not annoying in character - the sort I could live with every day. So here is the list:

  • Elna Starget - Very good detail, pleasant, natural tonality with a touch of warm softness. It's hard not to like this cap, and this is my recommended choice.
  • Sanyo Os-Con SA - Better detail than Starget, very neutral. Initially I picked it as the winner, but its matter-of-factly tonality borders on harsh, and will not be to everyone's taste.
  • Nichicon FG / FW / KZ - I found all Nichicons have a similar, warm presentation. The detail, while not altogether bad, was not quite as good as Starget. FG had the best detail and was a touch more neutral than other Nichicons.
  • Rubycon ZL - Detail on par with Starget, but the tonality was more on the dry side, especially bass sounded a little less than natural.

Group 2. The caps that were not all that great, but acceptable.

  • Rubycon ZLH - the dryness found on the ZL was even more evident here, joined by some graininess.
  • Panasonic AM - detail was lacking and presentation was gray and grainy, but the dynamics were not too bad. It gets my recommendation for "the cheap option".
  • ClarityCap SA - considering it's a film cap competing against electrolytics, quite a disappointment. Don't get me wrong, it's not bad - in fact, in many ways it sounds very correct. But the presentation is flat - there is no spark, no excitement. So I am hesitant to place it in Group 1, especially considering its massive price tag (42) and equally massive size. I suspect one of the high-end film caps (such as Mundorf Supreme, or any Duelund) would beat the Black Gates - but the price would be absolutely exorbitant, and the size issue would remain.

Group 3.

  • Panasonic FC - there is no reason to choose FC when AM is equally cheap, and similar in character, but with fewer colourations.
  • Elna Silmic II - I know this cap has some pretty fanatic followers, and I admit that it got the tonal balance pretty well. But the dynamics were dull, with sluggish transients - I could never make myself believe I am listening to live instruments while auditioning it. I do not recommend this capacitor.
  • Elna Cerafine - another audiophile classic, which, I am sorry to say, disappointed. The sound was not as dull as Silmic, but had strange artificial colouration, boxiness of sorts, especially apparent in midrange.
  • Nichicon BP - it's a bipolar cap for speaker crossovers that I tried it out of curiosity. Boring and unremarkable.

Group 4. Black Gate.

I tested a large number of Black Gates, so here they are in order of relative performance:

  • Black Gate STD - Decent detail, quite neutral. If Starget had the detail of Os-Con, it might just beat the STD by an inch. I tried both 33uf/16 and 47uf/16, the latter was better.
  • Black Gate FK - A significant step up from STD. The spatiality and detail take a leap in particular. Tonality is natural and even. I tested 47uf/16.
  • Black Gate N - Exquisite detail, spatial clues, organic timbres, very revealing. 47uf/50 is the recommended one. 33uf/16 is just as good but with less bass.
  • Black Gate Nx - Everything the N type has, but with slightly better resolution. I tested 47uf/6.3V.

In order to extract even more performance from your caps, I recommend applying a wood-mod.

Output resistors

The digital output level produced by LC78901 is around 2V. Most DACs work fine with 2V, but some have trouble locking onto the signal as the S/PDIF standard specifies 0.5V signal level. This can be remedied using a simple voltage divider (also called L-pad) at the output:

Another issue to consider is LC78601's rated current output, which calls for a minimum of 390R impedance at the output. This is not strictly necessary as LC78901 works fine with no output resistors, although the sound quality improves with the resistors in place.

Taking the above into account, the optimal resistor values are:

R1 (series): 300 R
R2 (shunt): 100 R

If you are on a tight budget, Dale is a reasonable choice for both positions.

For the best possible sound, the 300R position should use a "nude" Vishay (a.k.a. Z201 Z-foil, a.k.a. Texas Components TX2575), Shinkoh coming a far second. Nude Vishay restricts dynamics somewhat (makes the sound less exhilarating, some "soul" is lost), but the increase in detail is so great that I consider it a fair trade-off overall. If you hate restricting dynamics (and do not mind sacrificing detail), consider Riken or Caddock here.
The best overall choice for the 100R position seems to be Caddock MK132 (well-balanced overall sound, warmish tone; slightly muddy when compared to Shinkoh); reasonable alternatives include Shinkoh (good detail, but cold tone), Kiwame (less detail, slightly warm) and Allen-Bradley (also not super-detailed, but pleasant and natural). Riken is a good choice as well, if you can find them.

My hand-made resistors seem equally suited for both positions: standard resistors have more or less equivalent detail to Vishays, but superior dynamics; the Invisistor is simply better than Vishay, in every aspect.

NOT recommended are: "nude" Vishay in the shunt position - terribly flattens dynamics (really kills the soul of the music); Amtrans AMRG - introduces prominent colourations anywhere I used it; Audio Note tantalum - their sound is similar to Kiwame (a touch more neutral), but they are four times as expensive, so very poor value...


The above is the optimal approach if you like to do things "by the book". If you don't mind loading the LC78601 a little beyond its specification however, an even better solutions exists:

75-ohm Pi-pad (now obsolete, see below for the best solution)

In order to achieve perfect 75Ohm input and output impedance, and 12dB attenuation (which is required to knock down the signal from 2V to the textbook 0.5V), the resistor values are:
R2 (series) = 139.8 R
R1, R3 (shunt) = 125.3 R

This approach virtually eliminates signal reflections in the attenuator, and (unsurprisingly) yields a significant improvement in the sound; clarity in particular takes a leap. Even made with inferior resistors, the Pi-pad will generally outperform the L-pad (one notable exception being when the L-pad is made with my Invisistors, in which case it actually beats Pi-pad - see post#5888 by [woodturner-fran]).

There is one slight issue with the Pi-pad, of course: 125.3R and 139.8R are not very widely available resistor values. In fact, unless you make your own resistors (or order them hand-made from me), your only option is to buy a ready-made 75Ohm attenuator for cable/satellite TV, such as this:
They come in a few different attenuation values (from 3 to 20dB, I think). The attenuation value we are looking for is 12dB, but since that is not available, either 10 or 15dB should be fine. They are not very expensive (not much more than two fancy audio-grade resistors!), so you could buy a few and adjust to taste. The downside is that they only come with BNC connectors - if you use standard RCA sockets/cables, you will need a BNC-RCA adaptor (these are cheap and available in most electronic shops, or eBay).

A Pi-pad made with my Standard resistors sounds more natural than the BNC attenuator, although it does cost more. The "ultimate" solution, and what I am using, is a Pi-pad made with my flagship resistors. They are admittedly very costly, but - as Fran pointed out - they are still good value compared to cables...

50-ohm input, 75-ohm output Pi-pad

This has been suggested by marosik in forums. The idea is that the wave output impedance of the chip is actually 50 ohm, not 75 ohm, so by using a Pi-pad that has 50-ohm input impedance and 75-ohm impedance, we can beautifully impedance-match the entire transmission line. The resulting sound is deeper and more dynamic than using a 75-to-75ohm Pi-pad.

For a 50-to-75Ohm Pi-pad with 12dB attenuation, the resistor values are:

R1 (input shunt): 72R (71.749R if you want to be really precise)
R2 (series): 114R (114.204R)
R3 (output shunt): 156R (156.914R)

The attenuator layout is the same as in the Pi-pad above.

Recommended resistors are the same as with the previous attenuator types - Invisistors are best, Standard resistors second, third come Caddocks for shunt and nude Vishay for series (but keep in mind the dynamic penalty of the Vishays).


Advanced modifications

C906 / C8

This is probably the most puzzling of all Shigaclone capacitors. The stock JVC player uses a cheap-looking 0.1uF electrolytic cap here, and yet somehow it sounds better than most "audio grade" capacitors - both electrolytic and film. It is thought to be one of the key reasons behind the early Shigaclone "magic".

It is connected to pin 10 of the LA9242M, and is used to adjust tracking gain time constant (in the Tracking Servo section).

Recommended value:
The JVC player uses 0.1uF; the LA9242M datasheet suggests 0.068uF; diyaudio experimenters (Okapi and others) suggest an even lower value of 0.01uF.

In my own experiments, I tested a bunch of capacitors, some in the original value (Black Gate Nx, Multicap RTX), some in the Okapi recommended 10nF (Multicap RTX, Vishay MKP1837, Duelund Alexander). The 10nF value sounded consistently better to me.
Then I made my own capacitors, and further established, that the optimum value is around 8-12nF. At around 12-14nF the sounds starts to gradually lose detail, until you get to 20nF, above which the sound doesn't seem to change much. Below 6nF, the player may start having trouble with read. Installing no capacitor at all (open-circuit) results in the player being unable to read anything (not even TOC). Bridging the connectors with a jumper (short-circuit): the player does work, but is virtually unable to cope with CD imperfections, and the sound is degraded.
One or two people tried and found preferable a higher value than the original (0.22uF or even more). Whether this is better or worse than the 10nF, has not yet been established.

My recommendation: 10nF (0.01uF)

Recommended type:
My own experiments rule out the following: Black Gate Nx (natural tonality, but no "magic"), Vishay MKP1837 (flat, no magic), Multicap RTX (improved detail, but artificial tonality).
Capacitors that are likely an improvement: V-Cap (Peter Daniel uses it, but never compared it directly to any other cap, post#4387), Russian teflon PIO cap (few different people mention it, but which exact model was used, and what else was being compared, is unknown; for example post#4750).
Capacitors that I can confirm as a definite improvement: Duelund Alexander is very natural, with good definition; My hand-made caps are even better, especially the new VNM+ Cap is spectacular.

Clock / crystal

I hesitate giving any explicit advice on this subject, as I have not done a lot of experimenting myself here, and accounts from others vary wildly. For example Trichord 4 clock: one person praises it for bringing detail and swing, but elsewhere two other users comment how they disliked its artificial and sterile sound. So until I conduct my own exhaustive experiments my only advice is to carefully audition your clocks before committing to one or another.

Case considerations

Mounting the laser assembly / mechanic

For a simplest approach, you can mount your mechanism any way you like, or just leave it lying on the floor, and it will work fine. But mounting has a strong, and not yet fully understood influence on the sound.

So far, the optimal (sonic-wise) solution seems to be to attach the mechanism rigidly, with two bolts, to a heavy structure, that conducts vibration well, but does not ring very much itself.
Best materials for mechanism support are bronze, copper or brass (although brass may sound slightly... "brass" - a bit over-enthusiastic in treble); aluminium is good, although slightly duller. If you have too much money, you could try solid silver, I'm sure it would sound amazing lol!
Best shape for mechanism support is a thick slab. How thick is "thick"? Generally, it should be thick enough, relative to its other dimensions, that it does not ring. Personally, I would not go below 3mm thickness (and I would definitely add some mass-loading in such case).

Speaking of which, mass-loading. I cannot overstate how important this is. If in doubt, always go for more mass. If you can't find a thick enough slab of copper/etc., buy multiples of whatever thickness you can get and stack it (remember to attach in such a manner that it does not ring).

Mounting with two bolts has been found to sound better than with three or four, for some inexplicable reason. The original Shigaraki had its mechanism mounted with two bolts too. Soft mounting (for example with rubber gaskets) results in muddy sound / loss of detail. [Tony X] suggests that the mechanism is very sensitive to bolt alignment, and proposes using carefully turned spacers to achieve perfectly level alignment: post#6543 - which I think is a very good idea.

Ok, so you have a mechanism mounted to a tank armor-plate already, what else can be done? Mounting spikes to your "mechanism slab", and placing it on another, preferably even more massive object is a sure-fire improvement. Again the supporting slab should preferably be metal, but things like marble or hardwood work well enough here. If you are not going for another metal slab, I suggest adding at least metal "pads" for contact points where spikes meet the wood/marble/etc. of the support slab. This will aid in vibration transfer.

I did an experiment where I first placed my mechanism slab (with three spikes) on an oak board, and listened to the sound. I then placed a large 3mm thick copper plate on top of the oak board, so that the mechanism slab was now resting on copper, not wood. The sound was noticeably better with copper. I then took out the large copper plate, and instead placed three smaller copper plates (also 3mm thick), one under each spike. The sound was noticeably more precise when each spike had its own small plate for support - the difference was not massive, but it was certainly there, and was noticeable.


Puck is the round element that holds your CD in place while it is playing. The boombox puck is a hat-shaped piece of plastic, with a ring magnet attached to it. The standard mechanism has a steel CD rest platform ("turntable"), so the magnet clamps to it. It has been found that shape, mass as well as the material from which a puck is made, all influence the sound. The current consensus appears to be that:
- a low-mass puck is preferable over higher mass
- a puck made with a natural materials is preferable over plastic
- magnet-less pucks are preferable over pucks that use magnets.

For those who do not have the boombox puck (new Shiga):

- The easiest option is probably getting an entire CD laser and motors assembly with the laptop-type clamp, which requires no puck:

It is available on ebay. Run an eBay search (remember to look for the 16-pin version). Keep in mind that it has been suggested that this this type of mechanism sounds worse than the standard mech.

- An alternative is to search for an old/broken JVC or Sanyo boombox - there is a small chance it uses the same CD mechanism, and has a compatible puck (it's free so why not try).

- [apoopoo999] suggested a way of making your own magnetic puck, that is cheap and relatively easy, if you have the tools: post#5677. [Sean Henderson] suggested a similar solution later: post#6150.

- Tibi hinted that he is working on developing his own puck as well, which may be available for purchase soon. Tibi's aluminium puck is now available from his web store.

For those who look to improve the sound or visuals of their Shiga:

- [BMW850] got himself a custom-made aluminium puck: post #5342

- [woodturner-fran] made a few wooden pucks, but is not currently accepting orders for more. [Ed LaFontaine] offered to make wooden pucks a while back, his offer might still be open.

- Puck-less (a.k.a. spider-mod): the idea being that with some non-slip coating on the CD platform, there will be enough friction to allow spinning of the disc even with no puck at all. I came up with a spider silk coating, which I found (much to my surprise) substantially improved the sound. Read the full story here:
post#6259 and post#6263.
There are numerous other options being considered (liquid latex rubber, silicone, 3M adhesive etc.), but so far there are no confirmed reports of a working alternative solution.

Update: I have been using the spider-coating for a few months now, and it is still working well. The only disadvantage of this solution is that some care is required when lifting the CD off the platform - but spider silk is actually extremely strong, and that is a minor inconvenience anyway compared to the gains in the sound. Considering that this modification is easily reversible and essentially free, I heartily recommend trying it. Yes, it's wacky, it will attract incredulous looks from people, and it's probably best never to mention it to your wife - but the sound is so organic that you will never look back once you try. So read up the link above and go get some spider webs!

Update 2: Nearly a year after I applied, the web is starting to give up. It still sticks sufficiently for the player to work, but is now dry enough that the CD will occasionally break traction and slide on its platform.

Remote control

The old Shigaclone had the remote from the boombox, but the new one does not come with any. Tibi suggests getting a universal remote, which should work fine with the new Shiga (most remotes will require set-up though).

Another option is getting a JVC RM-SRCBX330 remote control (run an eBay search), which is pretty much exactly what JVC boomboxes use. It should work with the new Shiga as well.

Finally, Tibi is working on a new remote control. Tibi's remote kit is now available from his web store.


All of the information contained in this website is provided with the best of intentions. It is however provided "as is", and may contain inaccuracies, mistakes, outdated information, unfounded claims and personal opinions - use your own best judgement, and above all -use common sense. No claims will be accepted for any damage or loss, direct or implied, that arose due to the use of advice provided herein.






Copyright 2009-13 Jaroslaw Biniek.
Updated: 02 Mar 2014.